Indian Ethnic Wear Glossary: Saree, Fabric, Weave and Embroidery Terms from A to Z

How to use this saree and ethnic wear glossary

Every entry has its own heading, so you can link straight to a single term (for example /ethnic-wear-glossary#zari) or use your phone's "find in page" to search for a word you saw on a tag.

• Jump by letter: A–B · C–D · E–J · K · L–M · N–P · R–S · T–Z
• Browse by group: the quick groups section sorts every term into saree parts, weaves, prints and dyes, embroidery, fabrics, regional sarees, garments, drapes and tailoring.
• Local names: the Hindi, Gujarati and Marathi names table helps when your tailor or shopkeeper uses a different word for the same thing.

A few words have more than one meaning in the trade. "Raw silk", "dola silk" and "art silk" are market names rather than strict technical terms, so always read the fibre content on the label and ask the seller. When a term is about purity (pure zari, pure silk, handloom), our guide to identifying pure silk and the saree price guide show how to check it before you pay. For an overview of the famous weaves by region, start with types of sarees in India.

Saree and fabric terms A–B (aari work to buti)

Aari work

Embroidery done with a fine hooked needle (the aari) on fabric stretched over a frame. It makes a quick, even chain stitch, so it is used for dense floral work on blouses, lehengas and dupattas, and is traditional in Kutch and Kashmir.

Ajrakh

A resist-dyed, hand-block-printed textile from Kutch in Gujarat and from Sindh, usually in deep indigo and madder red with geometric star and jaal patterns. Making it takes many rounds of printing, dyeing and washing. Read more in our guide to West Indian fabrics.

Ambi (paisley)

The curved mango or teardrop motif known worldwide as paisley, called kairi in Gujarati and Marathi. It appears on Kashmiri shawls, Banarasi borders, Paithani pallus and bandhani.

Anarkali

A long, frock-style kurta with a fitted bodice that flares out from the waist or high waist, usually worn with a churidar and dupatta. It is a favourite for weddings and festivals because it is graceful and easy to move in.

Angrakha

An overlapping, wrap-front garment tied at the side with strings, originally a men's court coat. Today the angrakha neckline is common on kurtas, anarkalis and blouses for women.

Angavastram

An unstitched cloth, usually with a zari or silk border, draped over the shoulders by men in South India, often matching the veshti or dhoti at weddings and temple visits.

Appliqué

Decoration made by cutting shapes from one fabric and stitching them onto another. It is a strong folk tradition in Kutch, Rajasthan and Pipli in Odisha, and is used on cholis, quilts and festive wear.

Art silk

Short for "artificial silk": a fabric, usually viscose rayon or polyester, made to look like silk. It is cheaper and lighter than pure silk, but it is not silk, so check the label. Our pure silk identification guide explains the difference.

Bagh print

Hand-block printing from the village of Bagh in Madhya Pradesh, using natural dyes, mostly red and black on a white base. See our Bagh print guide.

Baluchari

A silk saree from Bishnupur in West Bengal whose pallu is woven with picture panels, often scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Read the Baluchari silk guide.

Banarasi

A saree woven in and around Varanasi (Banaras), famous for silk with rich zari brocade, Mughal-inspired floral motifs and heavy pallus. It is a classic bridal and trousseau saree. See our Banarasi silk buying guide and the Banarasi vs Kanjivaram comparison.

Bandhani (bandhej)

Tie-dye in which tiny points of cloth are pinched and tied tightly with thread before dyeing, leaving small undyed dots in patterns. It is a speciality of Gujarat and Rajasthan, used on sarees, chaniya cholis and dupattas. Read our bandhani festive wear guide.

Bandhgala (Jodhpuri)

A men's closed, high-neck jacket or coat with buttons down the front, worn with trousers or churidar for weddings and formal events.

Batik

A wax-resist dyeing method: hot wax is painted or stamped on the cloth, the cloth is dyed, and the wax is removed. Cracks in the wax give batik its typical fine veins of colour.

Bengali drape (aath poure)

The traditional Bengali way of wearing a saree, with wide box pleats in front and the pallu brought over the left shoulder and round to the right, sometimes with a bunch of keys tied to the end. Follow our Bengali saree draping guide.

Blouse

The fitted top worn under a saree. It can be simple or heavily worked, and the neck, back and sleeve design change the whole look of the saree. Browse ideas in our saree blouse designs guide.

Blouse piece (running blouse)

The unstitched length of fabric for the blouse, usually woven at one end of the saree and often about 0.8 to 1 metre long (it varies). A "running blouse" matches the saree body; a "contrast blouse" is in a different colour.

Block print

Printing by hand with carved wooden blocks dipped in dye and pressed onto cloth, one repeat at a time. Sanganer, Bagru, Bagh and Ajrakhpur are well-known centres.

Boat neck

A wide, shallow blouse neckline that runs almost straight from shoulder to shoulder. It suits long necks and looks elegant with silk and handloom sarees.

Bomkai

A cotton or silk saree from Odisha, named after Bomkai village in Ganjam district, known for extra-weft motifs, temple borders and touches of ikat. It is also called Sonepuri in some markets.

Border (kinara)

The woven band along the length of the saree. Borders can be thin or broad, plain, zari, temple or contrast, and they frame the saree when draped.

Brocade

A rich fabric in which raised patterns are woven in using extra (supplementary) weft threads, very often zari, so the design looks embroidered but is part of the weave. Banarasi brocade is the best known; see Banarasi brocade for weddings.

Buta

A large woven or embroidered motif, such as a flower, mango or peacock, spaced across the body or pallu. A saree covered with butas is called butedar.

Buti

A small buta: a tiny dot-like motif scattered evenly over the saree body. Chanderi and Banarasi sarees often have zari butis.

Saree and fabric terms C–D (can-can to dupatta)

Can-can

A stiff, layered net petticoat or lining worn under a lehenga or chaniya to make the skirt stand out in a wide flare.

Cap sleeve

A very short blouse sleeve that just covers the top of the shoulder. It is a lighter option than elbow sleeves for summer and party sarees.

Chanderi

A sheer, light handloom fabric from Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, woven in silk, cotton or silk-cotton, often with small zari or coin-like butis. See the Chanderi fabric guide.

Chaniya choli

The Gujarati name for a flared skirt (chaniyo) worn with a fitted blouse (choli) and dupatta. It is the classic outfit for Navratri garba. See our Navratri chaniya choli trends.

Chettinad saree

A cotton saree from the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu, known for bold checks and stripes, earthy colours and contrast borders.

Chiffon

A very light, sheer, plain-woven fabric that falls in soft folds. It can be silk or synthetic and is popular for party sarees and dupattas.

Chikankari

Fine hand embroidery from Lucknow, traditionally white thread on white muslin, using many stitches such as shadow work and tiny knots. Today it is done in colours on cotton, georgette and silk. Read our chikankari guide.

Chinon

A light, slightly glossy synthetic fabric that sits between chiffon and georgette in feel. It is common in printed and embroidered sarees, suits and dupattas from Surat.

Choli

A short, fitted bodice worn with a lehenga, ghagra or saree. In parts of Rajasthan and Gujarat the choli may be backless and tied with strings.

Churidar

Narrow trousers cut longer than the leg so the extra length gathers into ring-like folds at the ankle, like bangles (churi). They are worn with kurtas and anarkalis.

Coorgi drape

The Kodava style from Kodagu (Coorg) in Karnataka, with the pleats tucked at the back and the pallu brought over the right shoulder and pinned. Try it with our saree draping styles tool.

Corset blouse

A structured blouse with boning or panels that shape the waist, like a corset. It is popular with lehengas and modern sarees; see corset blouse designs.

Cotton silk (silk cotton)

A blend woven with silk and cotton yarns, often a silk warp with a cotton weft or the reverse. It has a soft sheen, breathes better than pure silk and costs less.

Crepe

A fabric with a fine, crinkled, grainy surface made with tightly twisted yarns. It drapes beautifully and resists creasing; Mysore silk is a pure silk crepe. See our crepe fabric guide.

Cutdana

Small, sharp-cut glass or plastic beads stitched in embroidery to catch the light. Cutdana is often mixed with zardozi and sequins on bridal wear.

Cutwork (Banarasi)

A quicker Banarasi weaving method in which the extra-weft thread runs across the full width and the loose floats between motifs are cut away on the back. It is lighter and cheaper than kadhwa.

Dabka

Tightly coiled metal wire, cut into small pieces and stitched on to create raised, textured zardozi work. A similar springy coil is called salma.

Dabu print

A mud-resist printing method from Rajasthan: a paste of clay, lime and gum is block-printed on the cloth, which is then dyed, often in indigo, leaving the pattern pale.

Darts

Small stitched folds at the bust and waist of a blouse that shape flat fabric to the body. Good darts are what make a blouse fit smoothly.

Dharmavaram

Silk sarees from Dharmavaram in Andhra Pradesh, known for broad zari borders, rich contrast pallus and bright colours, often chosen for weddings.

Dhoti

An unstitched cloth wrapped around the waist and legs and tucked, worn by men across India. It is called veshti in Tamil Nadu, mundu in Kerala and panche in Karnataka.

Dhoti pants

Stitched trousers cut to look like a draped dhoti, with folds at the front and narrow ankles. They are paired with kurtas and short tops by both women and men.

Digital print

Patterns printed on fabric with inkjet machines, which allows many colours and photo-like detail. It is quick and affordable and very common on georgette, crepe and satin sarees.

Dobby

A loom attachment that weaves small geometric patterns, such as dots, checks and diamonds, into the cloth itself.

Dola silk

A trade name for a soft, light, lustrous fabric often sold with foil or jacquard patterns. It is usually a blend or a synthetic rather than pure silk, so check the fibre content.

Dori

A cord or string, usually fabric-covered, used to tie a blouse at the back or neck, often finished with tassels (latkans).

Double ikat

Ikat in which both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving, so the pattern only appears when the two meet exactly on the loom. Patan Patola from Gujarat is the most famous example; read Patola: Patan vs Rajkot.

Dupatta

A long scarf worn with a salwar kameez, lehenga or kurta, draped over the shoulders, chest or head. It is also called chunni or odhni.

Saree and fabric terms E–J (eri silk to jamdani)

Eri silk

A soft, warm, matte silk from Assam and the North-East, often called "ahimsa" or peace silk because it is usually spun after the moth leaves the cocoon. Read our Eri silk guide.

Extra weft (supplementary weft)

Additional weft threads added on top of the base weave to create motifs. Most woven butas, brocades and jamdani patterns are made this way.

Fall

A strip of cotton fabric, about the width of a hand, stitched inside the lower border of a saree. It adds weight so the pleats fall straight and protects the edge from wear. Our saree guide for beginners explains why every new saree needs fall and pico.

Gadwal

A saree from Gadwal in Telangana with a cotton body and silk border and pallu, joined by an interlocking weave, light to wear yet festive.

Gajji silk

A lustrous, satin-weave silk from Gujarat, much used as the base for bandhani and other tie-dye work.

Gara (Parsi gara)

Fine Parsi embroidery in satin stitch with Chinese-inspired flowers, birds and pagodas, worked on silk sarees. Old gara sarees are treasured heirlooms.

Garad

A Bengal silk saree in white or off-white with a red border, worn especially for Durga Puja and other festivals. Read more in our East Indian fabrics guide.

Georgette

A sheer, light fabric with a slightly crinkled, grainy feel, heavier and more opaque than chiffon. It drapes softly, travels well and is a staple for party sarees.

Gharara

Wide trousers that are fitted down to the knee and then flare out from a gathered seam at the knee, a traditional Lucknowi style worn with a short kurta.

Gharchola

A Gujarati bridal saree, usually red or maroon, divided by zari lines into a grid of squares filled with bandhani dots and motifs. In many families it is given by the groom's side. See our West India sarees guide.

Gher (flare)

The circumference of a lehenga or chaniya at the hem, often given in metres. A bigger gher means a fuller, more swirling skirt for garba and dance.

Ghagra

A long, full, gathered skirt, traditional in Rajasthan and Gujarat, worn with a choli and odhni. Today "ghagra" and "lehenga" are often used for the same thing; our types of lehenga guide explains the differences.

GI tag

A Geographical Indication: a legal registration that ties a product's name to the region and community that traditionally make it, for example Paithani or Patan Patola. See our list of GI-tag sarees.

Gota patti

Rajasthani embroidery in which narrow gold or silver ribbon (gota) is cut into shapes and stitched onto fabric. It is light, shiny and popular for festive and haldi outfits.

Half saree (langa voni)

A South Indian outfit of a long skirt (langa or pavadai), a blouse and a half-length drape (voni or davani), traditionally worn by young girls. See our pattu pavadai and half saree guide.

Handloom

Cloth woven on a loom operated by hand and foot, without electric power. Handloom sarees show small irregularities and take far longer to weave. Learn to tell them apart in handloom vs powerloom.

Handloom Mark

A label from a Government of India scheme that certifies a product as handwoven. Not every genuine handloom carries it, but it is a useful sign when present.

High neck

A blouse or choli neckline that rises to the base of the neck or higher, often with a closed back. See high neck blouse designs.

Hooks (hook and eye)

The small metal fasteners used to close most saree blouses, usually at the front. Zips and buttons are alternatives for back-opening designs.

Ikat

A resist-dye technique in which bundles of yarn are tied and dyed before weaving, so the pattern appears as the cloth is woven, with soft, blurred edges. In single ikat only the warp or the weft is dyed. See our Pochampally ikat guide.

Ilkal

A cotton or cotton-silk saree from Ilkal in Karnataka, known for its distinctive pallu, traditionally red with white patterns, joined to the body by a special looping technique. It is often decorated with kasuti embroidery.

Indigo

A natural blue dye made from the Indigofera plant, used for centuries in Indian block prints, ikat and dabu work.

Jaal

A net or lattice pattern that covers the fabric all over, woven or embroidered, often filled with small flowers or butis.

Jacquard

A loom mechanism, once punched cards and now often electronic, that controls individual warp threads to weave complex patterns. Many handlooms also use a jacquard attachment.

Jamawar

Originally a fine Kashmiri woven shawl fabric with dense paisley patterns. Today the name is also used for brocades with an all-over paisley weave.

Jamdani

Fine muslin from Bengal and Bangladesh in which motifs are woven by hand, inserting extra threads one motif at a time so they seem to float on the sheer cloth. Read our Jamdani saree guide.

Saree and fabric terms starting with K (kadhwa to Kutch work)

Kadhwa

The finest Banarasi weaving method, in which each motif is woven separately with its own thread so there are no loose floats to cut. It is slower and costlier than cutwork, and the motifs are more durable.

Kalamkari

Hand-painted or block-printed textile from Andhra Pradesh using natural dyes. Srikalahasti is known for pen-drawn (kalam) mythological scenes and Machilipatnam for block prints.

Kali

A tapering panel of fabric. Many kalis stitched side by side give an anarkali, kurta or lehenga its flare.

Kalidar

A kurta or anarkali cut from many kalis, so it is fitted at the top and swings out at the hem. It is a traditional Lucknowi and North Indian cut.

Kamarbandh

A waist belt worn over a saree or lehenga, in metal, beadwork or embroidered fabric. It holds the pleats and pallu in place and adds a traditional touch.

Kanjivaram (Kanchipuram)

A heavy mulberry silk saree from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, with rich zari, temple borders and contrast pallus, often joined by korvai. It is the classic South Indian bridal silk. See how to identify pure Kanjivaram and the history of Kanchipuram silk.

Kantha

Running-stitch embroidery from Bengal and Odisha, first used to layer old saris into quilts and now done on silk and cotton sarees. Read our Kantha stitch guide.

Kasab

The Gujarati and Marathi word for zari, the metallic thread used in weaving and embroidery, as in kasab work on Paithani and Kutch textiles.

Kasavu

The gold zari border of Kerala's off-white handloom sarees and mundus. The word is also used for the whole saree. Read our Kasavu saree guide.

Kashida

The general name for Kashmiri embroidery, which includes fine sozni needlework, aari chain stitch and tilla metallic thread work.

Kasuti

Hand embroidery from Karnataka in tiny counted stitches, forming geometric motifs such as temples, chariots and lamps, often on Ilkal sarees.

Katan

Pure silk yarn made by twisting several silk filaments together. A "Katan Banarasi" is a pure silk Banarasi with a smooth, plain-woven base.

Katori blouse

A blouse with cup-shaped panels (katori means bowl) stitched under the bust for a rounded, supported shape. See more cuts in our blouse designs guide.

Kediyu

A Gujarati men's short, frilled top with gathered flares at the waist, worn with chorno (trousers) for Navratri garba.

Keyhole neck

A blouse neckline or back with a small teardrop or round opening, often closed with a button or dori at the top.

Khadi

Cloth that is both hand-spun and handwoven, usually from cotton, silk or wool. It was central to India's freedom movement and is breathable and slightly textured.

Kinari

A decorative border lace or ribbon stitched along the edge of a saree, dupatta or lehenga, often with zari, gota or embroidery.

Kinkhab

A very heavy brocade, historically from Banaras, so densely woven with gold and silver zari that the base silk barely shows.

Kora

A word for raw, unwashed or undyed cloth. Kora silk or kora organza is crisp, sheer silk that has not been fully degummed, used in light Banarasi sarees.

Korvai

A Kanjivaram technique in which a contrast border and body are woven separately on the same loom and interlocked by hand, so the join is very strong. It is a sign of skilled weaving.

Kosa silk

A variety of tussar silk from Chhattisgarh, with a natural golden-beige tone and a soft, textured feel. See our Central Indian fabrics guide.

Kota Doria

A very light, airy fabric from Kota in Rajasthan, in cotton or cotton-silk, woven with a small square check pattern. It is ideal for summer sarees.

Kurta

A long, loose or semi-fitted tunic worn by men and women, usually over pyjama, churidar, salwar or palazzo.

Kurti

A shorter kurta for women, usually hip-length, worn with jeans, leggings, palazzos or skirts for everyday wear.

Kutch work

The embroidery traditions of Kutch in Gujarat, known for bright threads, small mirrors and bold geometric and floral patterns, each community having its own style.

Saree and fabric terms L–M (latkan to Mysore silk)

Latkan

A decorative tassel hanging from a blouse dori, lehenga drawstring or saree pallu, made with beads, threads, pearls or small bells.

Lehenga

A long, flared skirt worn with a choli and dupatta, the most popular bridal outfit in North and West India. Silhouettes range from A-line to mermaid; see types of lehenga and our bridal lehenga guide.

Lehenga saree

A stitched lehenga skirt with a pre-pleated pallu attached, which looks like a saree but wears as easily as a lehenga.

Leheriya

A Rajasthani tie-dye in which the cloth is rolled and tied diagonally to create wave-like stripes. It is traditional for the monsoon and Teej. See bandhani vs leheriya vs patola.

Linen

A natural fabric made from flax fibres, crisp, breathable and cool in heat, with a gentle slub texture. Read about linen sarees and clothing.

Lining (astar)

An inner layer of fabric, usually cotton, stitched inside a blouse or lehenga. It makes the garment comfortable, absorbs sweat and protects delicate outer fabric.

Madisar

The traditional nine-yard drape worn by many Tamil Brahmin women, with a tuck between the legs, usually for weddings and religious ceremonies. See South Indian saree draping styles.

Maheshwari

A light cotton-silk handloom saree from Maheshwar in Madhya Pradesh, known for simple stripes or checks and a reversible border. Read our Maheshwari handloom guide.

Mangalgiri

Cotton (and silk-cotton) handloom sarees from Mangalagiri in Andhra Pradesh, with a plain or lightly patterned body and a simple zari border.

Margin (seam allowance)

The extra fabric a tailor leaves inside the seams of a blouse so it can be loosened later. Ask for a good margin if your measurements change often; our blouse measurement guide explains how to brief your tailor.

Mashru

A satin-weave fabric from Gujarat (traditionally Patan) with a silk warp on the face and cotton weft inside, giving a glossy surface that is comfortable on the skin.

Matka silk

A rough-textured silk woven from hand-spun yarn made from short or waste mulberry silk fibres. It is matte and earthy and drapes with body.

Meenakari (weave)

Colourful silk threads woven into or around zari motifs, so the design looks like enamelled (meenakari) jewellery. It is common in Banarasi and other brocade sarees.

Mekhela chador

The traditional two-piece Assamese outfit: the mekhela is a pleated, wrapped skirt and the chador is draped over it like a pallu. It is often woven in muga or pat silk.

Mirror work (shisha, abhla)

Embroidery in which small round or shaped mirrors are held in place with stitched frames. It is a hallmark of Gujarat and Rajasthan and a favourite for Navratri outfits.

Moti work

Embroidery with pearls or pearl-like beads, used on blouses, lehengas and dupattas for a soft, elegant shine.

Muga silk

The naturally golden silk of Assam, known for its sheen and durability; its lustre is said to grow with age. Read our Muga silk guide.

Mukaish (badla)

A Lucknowi technique in which thin strips of flattened metal wire are twisted into the fabric to make tiny shining dots, often combined with chikankari.

Mulberry silk

The most common silk, from silkworms fed on mulberry leaves. It is smooth and lustrous and is the base of Kanjivaram, Banarasi and Mysore silk. Read our guide to Indian silk and how to care for it in silk saree care.

Mulmul (muslin)

A very soft, fine, lightweight cotton, ideal for summer sarees, kurtas and dupattas. Read more in our handloom cotton guide.

Mundum neriyathu

Kerala's traditional two-piece garment: the mundu is worn round the lower body and the neriyathu is draped over the blouse, both off-white with a kasavu border.

Mysore silk

A smooth, lightweight pure silk crepe saree from Karnataka, with a soft sheen and usually a simple zari border. See Mysore silk vs Kanjivaram.

Saree and fabric terms N–P (Narayanpet to puff sleeve)

Narayanpet

Cotton and silk sarees from Narayanpet in Telangana, known for checked bodies, contrast borders with temple patterns and a sturdy feel.

Nauvari

The Maharashtrian nine-yard saree and drape, worn without a petticoat and tucked between the legs (the kashta) like a dhoti, giving freedom of movement. It is worn for weddings, festivals and Lavani.

Nehru jacket

A sleeveless men's jacket with a short stand-up collar, worn over a kurta. It is a simple way to dress up for weddings and festivals.

Net

An open-mesh fabric, light and see-through, used for lehengas, dupattas and sarees, usually with embroidery, sequins or lining underneath.

Nivi drape

The most common saree drape in India: pleats tucked at the front and the pallu over the left shoulder. It began in Andhra Pradesh. Learn it step by step in our Nivi drape tutorial.

Odhni

A long veil or scarf, larger than a dupatta, worn over the head and shoulders with a ghagra choli in Rajasthan and Gujarat.

Organza

A thin, sheer, crisp fabric with a stiff body and a soft shine, made from silk or synthetics. It holds its shape and looks light in summer. See our organza saree guide.

Padded blouse

A blouse with soft cups or padding sewn in, giving shape and removing the need for a separate bra. Padding suits deep necks and backless styles.

Paithani

A handwoven silk saree from Paithan and Yeola in Maharashtra, with a rich zari pallu woven in tapestry style, often with peacock, parrot and flowering vine motifs. Read our Paithani saree guide.

Palazzo

Wide, straight, flowing trousers worn with kurtas and kurtis, comfortable in heat and easy to wear.

Pallu

The decorated end of the saree that falls over the shoulder, usually the richest part of the design. It is called aanchal in Hindi and Bengali, padar in Marathi, palav in Gujarati and mundhanai in Tamil.

Panetar

A Gujarati bridal saree, traditionally white or off-white with a red border and bandhani, which in many families is gifted by the bride's maternal uncle and worn for the wedding ceremony.

Pashmina

Very fine, warm wool from the Changthangi goat of Ladakh, hand-spun and woven in Kashmir into shawls and stoles. Learn how to spot real pashmina.

Patiala salwar

A Punjabi salwar with many deep pleats that fall in heavy folds, gathered at the ankle, usually worn with a short kurta.

Patola

A double ikat silk saree from Patan in Gujarat, famous for precise geometric and figurative patterns that look the same on both sides. Rajkot Patola is usually single ikat. Read our Patola ikat guide.

Pattu

The word for silk in several South Indian languages, as in pattu saree or pattu pavadai.

Pattu pavadai

A silk skirt (pavadai) with a matching blouse, the traditional outfit for little girls in South India for festivals and family functions.

Petticoat (inskirt)

The long, drawstring underskirt worn under a saree. The saree's pleats are tucked into it, so a well-fitted petticoat in a matching colour is essential. Our saree for body type guide covers petticoat cuts that slim and lengthen.

Phulkari

"Flower work" from Punjab: bright silk floss darned from the back of cotton cloth so that the front is covered with geometric flowers. Read our Phulkari embroidery guide.

Pico

A narrow machine finish stitched along the raw cut edges of a saree, especially chiffon and georgette, to stop fraying. It is usually done together with the fall.

Pleats

The neat folds of the saree tucked into the petticoat at the front. Five to seven pleats of even width are typical for the Nivi drape.

Pochampally

Ikat sarees and fabrics from Bhoodan Pochampally in Telangana, known for sharp geometric patterns in bright colours. Read our Pochampally ikat guide.

Potli buttons

Small, round, fabric-covered buttons, often in a row down the back of a blouse. They are both functional and decorative.

Powerloom

A loom driven by an electric motor. Powerloom sarees are faster to make and cheaper, with very even weaving and flat reverse sides. See handloom vs powerloom.

Pre-draped saree

A saree with pleats and pallu already stitched in place, worn like a skirt and draped in a minute. See our pre-draped saree guide.

Princess cut

A blouse cut with vertical seams running from the shoulder or armhole over the bust to the waist instead of darts, for a smooth, close fit.

Puff sleeve

A sleeve gathered at the shoulder, cuff or both so it puffs out. It suits narrow shoulders and adds a vintage feel.

Saree and fabric terms R–S (Rajputi poshak to sweetheart neck)

Rajputi poshak

The traditional Rajput ensemble from Rajasthan: a full ghagra, a kurti, a kanchli (bodice) and a long odhni, often in georgette with gota work.

Rangkat

A Banarasi style in which blocks or bands of different colours are woven into the same saree, giving a striking multi-coloured look.

Raw silk

In the Indian market, a silk with a slightly stiff, matte, slubbed texture because it is not fully degummed or is woven from uneven yarn. It holds shape well for blouses, lehengas and kurtas. See raw silk for daytime functions.

Resham

Silk thread, especially the soft, shiny floss used in embroidery. Resham work is embroidery with silk or silk-like threads instead of metal zari.

Salwar kameez

A North Indian outfit of loose trousers (salwar), a long tunic (kameez) and a dupatta. Variations include churidar and Patiala sets.

Sambalpuri

Ikat sarees from western Odisha, in cotton or silk, with motifs such as the conch (shankha), wheel (chakra) and flower (phula). Read more in our East Indian fabrics guide.

Sanganeri

Fine hand-block printing from Sanganer near Jaipur, known for delicate floral patterns on light backgrounds.

Saree (sari)

An unstitched length of fabric, usually 5 to 6 metres (nine yards for some traditional drapes), wrapped and pleated over a petticoat and worn with a blouse. See all regional styles in types of sarees.

Satin

A weave with long floats that give a smooth, glossy face and a dull back, made in silk or synthetic fibres. Satin sarees are popular for parties.

Seedha pallu

The Gujarati and North Indian drape in which the pallu is brought from the back over the right shoulder and spread across the front to show off its design. See North Indian saree draping styles.

Selvedge

The tightly woven edge along both sides of a woven fabric that stops it from unravelling.

Sequins (sitara)

Small, shiny discs, often metallic or plastic, stitched on for sparkle, alone or with zari, beads and thread.

Shalu

The Marathi word for a heavy silk bridal saree, often a Paithani or a rich zari silk, which in many families is part of the bride's trousseau. See our bridal trousseau checklist.

Saree shapewear

A fitted, stretchable petticoat (fishcut or mermaid style) worn instead of a regular petticoat so the saree drapes smoothly over the hips.

Sharara

Very wide, flared trousers that fall like a skirt from the waist or hip, worn with a short kurta and dupatta, popular for mehendi and sangeet.

Sherwani

A long, coat-like men's garment, often richly embroidered, worn over churidar or trousers by grooms and wedding guests. See what to wear for every Indian occasion.

Silk Mark

A quality label from the Silk Mark Organisation of India that certifies a product is made of natural silk. Ask for it on any saree sold as pure silk.

Sozni

Very fine Kashmiri needle embroidery, mainly on pashmina and wool shawls, with tiny stitches forming paisleys and flowers.

Stone work

Embellishment with small glass stones, crystals or rhinestones, glued or stitched on for shine on party sarees, lehengas and blouses.

Sweetheart neck

A blouse neckline shaped like the top of a heart, with two curves meeting in a dip at the centre. See sweetheart neck choli styles.

Saree and fabric terms T–Z (tanchoi to zari)

Tanchoi

A Banarasi weave with a satin base and small, dense patterns woven in several colours of silk weft, often with no zari, giving a rich, embossed look.

Tant

A light, crisp cotton saree from West Bengal with a thick border and decorative pallu, starched and very comfortable in hot, humid weather.

Temple border

A border pattern of triangles that look like temple towers (gopurams), typical of Kanjivaram and other South Indian sarees. See our South Indian fabrics guide.

Tested zari

Zari made of copper wire coated with silver and gold. It looks like pure zari, is more affordable and is used in many silk sarees; ask the seller which kind you are buying. See zari silk explained.

Thread work

Embroidery done only with cotton, silk or synthetic thread, without metal or beads, for a soft and lighter look.

Tilla

Kashmiri embroidery with gold or silver metallic thread laid on the surface and held down with small stitches, used on shawls and phirans.

Tissue

A fabric woven with zari or metallic yarn in the weft, so it shimmers with a glassy sheen; tissue sarees can be silk, cotton or synthetic. Read the tissue silk saree guide.

Tussar silk

A wild silk with a natural golden-beige colour and a slightly textured feel, woven in Jharkhand, Bihar (Bhagalpur), Chhattisgarh, Odisha and West Bengal. Read our Tussar silk guide.

Uppada

Light, fine silk sarees from Uppada in Andhra Pradesh, woven in the jamdani technique with motifs that seem to float on the sheer silk.

Velvet

A fabric with a dense, soft pile on one side, rich and warm, used for winter bridal lehengas, blouses and shawls. See velvet for bridal lehengas.

Venkatagiri

Fine cotton (and silk) sarees from Venkatagiri in Andhra Pradesh, with zari borders and pallus and often jamdani-style motifs, valued for their light feel.

Viscose (rayon)

A fibre made from wood pulp cellulose. It is soft and drapes well and is used in art silk, printed sarees and kurtas, but it is not natural silk.

Warp

The threads stretched lengthwise on the loom before weaving begins. The weft is woven across them.

Weft

The threads passed across the warp from side to side to make the cloth. Extra-weft threads create woven motifs.

Yoke

The fitted panel at the shoulders or neck of a kurta, blouse or lehenga top, often embroidered.

Zardozi

Heavy, raised metallic embroidery using dabka, salma, sequins, beads and zari, with roots in the Mughal courts. It is the classic work on bridal lehengas and sherwanis.

Zari

Metallic thread used to weave or embroider. Pure (real) zari is silver thread coated with gold; tested zari is copper wire plated with silver and gold; imitation zari is metallised polyester. Surat is one of India's best-known zari centres. Read the zari silk guide, or see real zari weaves at our showroom in Surat.

Quick groups: saree parts, weaves, embroidery, tailoring and garments

The same terms, sorted by what they describe. Tap any word to jump to its meaning.

Parts of a saree

Pallu, border, blouse piece, pleats, fall, pico, kinari, selvedge, latkan. A saree has three main areas: the body, the border running along its length and the pallu at one end.

Weaves and weaving terms

Warp, weft, extra weft, handloom, powerloom, jacquard, dobby, brocade, kadhwa, cutwork, korvai, jamdani, ikat, double ikat, tanchoi, meenakari, rangkat, jaal, buta, buti, ambi, temple border, satin.

Prints and dyeing

Bandhani, leheriya, block print, ajrakh, Bagh, dabu, Sanganeri, kalamkari, batik, indigo, digital print.

Embroidery and surface work

Zardozi, zari, kasab, dabka, resham, thread work, aari, chikankari, mukaish, gota patti, mirror work, Kutch work, phulkari, kantha, kasuti, Parsi gara, kashida, sozni, tilla, appliqué, sequins, cutdana, moti work, stone work.

Fabrics and silks

Mulberry silk, tussar, muga, eri, kosa, matka, raw silk, katan, kora, gajji, mashru, cotton silk, khadi, mulmul, linen, chiffon, georgette, crepe, organza, tissue, net, velvet, chinon, dola silk, art silk, viscose, pashmina.

Regional sarees and textiles

Banarasi, Kanjivaram, Mysore silk, Paithani, Patola, gharchola, panetar, shalu, Chanderi, Maheshwari, Kota Doria, Baluchari, garad, tant, Sambalpuri, Bomkai, Pochampally, Gadwal, Narayanpet, Venkatagiri, Uppada, Mangalgiri, Dharmavaram, Chettinad, Ilkal, Kasavu, jamawar, kinkhab, GI tag.

Garments

Saree, lehenga, lehenga saree, pre-draped saree, chaniya choli, ghagra, choli, blouse, petticoat, shapewear, dupatta, odhni, half saree, pattu pavadai, mekhela chador, mundum neriyathu, Rajputi poshak, salwar kameez, churidar, Patiala, palazzo, sharara, gharara, dhoti pants, anarkali, angrakha, kurta, kurti, kalidar, kediyu, sherwani, bandhgala, Nehru jacket, dhoti, angavastram, kamarbandh.

Saree drapes

Nivi, seedha pallu, Bengali, nauvari, madisar, Coorgi, mekhela chador. Our saree draping styles guide compares them side by side.

Tailoring and blouse terms

Darts, margin, lining, hooks, dori, potli buttons, katori, princess cut, padded blouse, corset blouse, boat neck, high neck, sweetheart neck, keyhole, cap sleeve, puff sleeve, yoke, kali, gher, can-can. For sizing, use our ethnic wear size chart.

Labels and quality marks

Silk Mark, Handloom Mark, GI tag, tested zari. Before paying for a "pure handloom" saree, also run through our 12 red flags of fake handloom.

Hindi, Gujarati and Marathi names for common saree terms

Tailors, weavers and shopkeepers often use the local word. This table gives the common Hindi, Gujarati and Marathi names; usage varies by region and family, and English words like blouse, fall and border are used everywhere.

If you are planning a wedding wardrobe, our wedding season guide uses many of these words, and the saree gift guide helps you choose the right weave for someone else.