Blouse Measurement Guide: Measure at Home in Inches and CM

What you need before you measure

• A soft measuring tape (a tailor's tape, not a metal one), with inches on one side and centimetres on the other.
• The bra you will wear with the blouse. Bust measurements change noticeably between a padded bra, an unpadded bra and no bra, so always measure in the one you plan to wear.
• A thin, close-fitting top or just the bra. Never measure over a thick sweater or a loose shirt.
• A helper if possible. Back length, back neck depth and shoulder width are much more accurate when someone else measures them.
• A mirror, a pen and this page (print the chart further down to fill in as you go).

Stand straight and relaxed, with your arms down by your sides unless a step says otherwise. Keep the tape snug against the body but not tight. You should be able to slip one finger under it. Take each measurement twice; if the two readings differ, take the average.

The 14 blouse measurements, step by step

1. Bust: wrap the tape around the fullest part of your bust, keeping it level across your back (check in the mirror that it doesn't ride up). This is the most important measurement.
2. Upper chest: measure around your chest just under your armpits and above the bust. It helps the tailor shape the top of the blouse.
3. Under-bust: measure around your ribcage directly below the bust, where a bra band sits.
4. Waist (blouse end): measure around the body where you want the blouse to end, usually 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm) below the under-bust. This is not your natural waist; it is the blouse's lower edge.
5. Shoulder width: measure across your back from the tip of one shoulder bone to the tip of the other.
6. Front length: measure from the highest point of your shoulder (next to the neck) straight down over the bust to where you want the blouse to end.
7. Back length: measure from the base of your neck at the back straight down to where you want the blouse to end at the back.
8. Front neck depth: measure from the base of your neck at the front (the hollow at the collarbone) straight down to where you want the front neckline to sit. Typical depths are 5 to 7 inches (13–18 cm); deeper necks are a style choice.
9. Back neck depth: measure from the base of the neck at the back down to where you want the back neckline. Typical depths are 6 to 9 inches (15–23 cm); deep backs can go further, often with tie-ups (dori).
10. Armhole: wrap the tape around your shoulder and under your armpit, like a loop, with the arm relaxed.
11. Sleeve length: measure from the shoulder tip down the arm to where you want the sleeve to end, whether short, elbow or three-quarter.
12. Sleeve round (bicep): measure around the widest part of your upper arm. If you want longer sleeves, also measure the arm where the sleeve will end (the sleeve opening).
13. Apex length (shoulder to apex): measure from the highest point of the shoulder, next to the neck, down to the fullest point of the bust (the apex). This tells the tailor where to place the darts or cups, and it is the measurement most often skipped.
14. Apex to apex: measure straight across from one bust point to the other.

Write every measurement down immediately, and note which ones are in inches and which in centimetres. Mixing units is one of the most common reasons a blouse comes back wrong.

The easiest method: measure a blouse that already fits

If you already own a blouse that fits you well, measuring it is more reliable than measuring your body, because the tailor can copy a proven fit. Lay the blouse flat on a table, buttoned or hooked, and smooth it out.

• Bust: measure straight across the blouse from one armpit seam to the other, then double it.
• Waist: measure straight across the bottom edge and double it.
• Shoulder: measure across the back from one shoulder seam to the other.
• Lengths: measure front and back lengths from the shoulder seam next to the neck down to the hem.
• Neck depths: measure from the shoulder line straight down to the lowest point of the front and back neckline.
• Armhole: measure along the armhole seam, all the way round.
• Sleeves: measure the sleeve length along the top, and across the sleeve at its widest point, then double it.

Even better, if you can, send the blouse itself (or have a family member in India collect a sample blouse) to the tailor. Many tailors in India work from a sample blouse, and it removes almost all guesswork. Add a note of anything you would like changed, such as "1 inch looser at the bust" or "back neck 1 inch deeper".

Your blouse measurement chart (print and fill in)

Print this page or copy the table below, fill in your measurements, and send a photo of it to your tailor along with your order.

In the notes column, add the style details too: padded or non-padded, hooks at the front or back, zip, tie-ups (dori) with tassels, lining fabric, and sleeve style.

Inches and centimetres conversion table

Indian tailors usually work in inches, while many countries use centimetres. One inch is exactly 2.54 cm. Use this table for common blouse measurements, and round to the nearest half inch.

To convert centimetres to inches, divide by 2.54. For example, 92 cm ÷ 2.54 ≈ 36.2 inches, so write 36.

Extra measurements and tips by blouse style

For design ideas, see our article on high neck and wedding blouse designs.

Sending your measurements to a tailor in India

Many NRI women order blouses from tailors in India, or through online stores that offer stitching. To get it right first time:

1. Send everything in writing, such as a filled chart or a typed list, not voice notes alone. State "inches" or "cm" clearly.
2. Send photos: a front and side photo of you in a fitted top (optional, but very helpful), and photos of the blouse style you want.
3. Say whether the measurements are body or garment measurements. Body measurements need ease added by the tailor; garment measurements are copied as they are.
4. Ask for seam allowance (extra fabric inside the seams, often called "margin"), so a local tailor can let the blouse out by an inch if needed.
5. Confirm the style details: lining, padding, hook position, zip, sleeves, tassels and the fabric for piping.
6. Allow time. Stitching usually takes one to two weeks, and international shipping adds more. Plan 6 to 8 weeks before your event. See our guide on buying Indian clothes from abroad for timelines.

Measuring girls and teenagers

Mothers often order blouses and cholis for daughters for Navratri, Diwali, family weddings or a first half-saree. Girls grow quickly, so a few changes help:

• Measure close to the order date, not months before. A growth spurt can add an inch in a single season.
• Ask for generous seam allowance (1.5 to 2 inches at the side seams), so the blouse can be let out next year.
• Choose adjustable closures, such as back tie-ups (dori) or side hooks with two rows, which give a few centimetres of flexibility.
• Keep necklines modest and sleeves comfortable for younger girls, with a soft cotton lining so the blouse doesn't scratch during long events.
• For teenagers wearing a padded blouse for the first time, measure in the bra she will actually wear, and keep the style simple.

For age-wise outfit ideas, from pattu pavadai to half sarees, see our guide to Indian outfits for girls.

When your blouse arrives: how to check the fit

Try the blouse on as soon as it arrives, ideally with the bra you will wear and the saree draped over it. Check these points:

• Bust: the fabric should lie smooth, with no pulling lines between the hooks and no gaping.
• Apex and darts: the darts or cups should point to the fullest part of your bust, not above or below it.
• Shoulders: the shoulder seam should end at your shoulder bone, and straps shouldn't slip off.
• Armholes: you should be able to lift your arms above your head, as you would when dancing, without the blouse riding up or cutting in.
• Length: the blouse should cover the petticoat waistband line only as much as you want, without riding up when you raise your arms.
• Necklines: the front and back necklines should sit flat, without gaping when you bend forward.

Small adjustments, like taking in or letting out the side seams or moving hooks, can be done by most local alteration tailors abroad, which is why seam allowance matters. Bigger problems, like wrongly placed darts, are best fixed by re-ordering with corrected measurements, so note exactly what was wrong for next time.

Common measurement mistakes

• Pulling the tape too tight. The blouse will be too tight. Keep one finger of space.
• Measuring over thick clothing. Measure over a thin top or the bra only.
• Wearing a different bra. Always measure in the bra you will wear with the blouse.
• Skipping the apex measurements. Without them, darts and cups land in the wrong place.
• Measuring your natural waist instead of the blouse end. The blouse waist is just below the under-bust.
• Mixing inches and centimetres. Use one unit for the whole chart, and say which.
• Not allowing for changes. If your size may change before the event (for example during pregnancy or a fitness plan), ask for extra seam allowance.

Once your blouse is ready, follow our saree guide for beginners to drape it, and check our Indian size chart if you are also buying ready-made outfits.